Lessons Learned

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Westy Lessons Learned the hard way so you don't have to:

The propane tank filling procedure:

Only do this with a cold motor and the frig

and everything else off. or KABOOM!!!!

Use Gloves, safety glasses, and a Rosary. Or better yet have the mother-in-law do it

1. remove fill valve cover

2. attach propane filler hose

3. turn on propane to fill tank

4. open overfill valve, it is on the right side,

and must be fully opened, it has a barb ,

install a small vacuum hose to direct the

liquid propane away from the van and you.

5. fill until liquid comes out of valve

6. shut off propane fill close overfill valve

7. remove fill hose replace cover

Lighting your Refrigerator tricks that they don't tell you:

1. The push valve (to let the gas be on), it is on the left, only press it for a one-two

seconds, (and not 1 Mississippi 2 Mississippi ) anymore and you will flood it.

2. The little pump, pump at least 30 seconds, better yet use a small foot pump instead, and

pump air into the drain valve on the bottom of frig, the little factory pump sucks,

the upgrade ain't worth it, but a better thing is a new back fan for cooling, and better money spent.

3. On the small factory pump, where the electric start clicker is, make it click as

much as you can for at least 30 seconds to make the pilot light come on, and the

L.E.D Light will come on. later........... click...click. click ...as much as you can until it happens.

If didn't light get out your little air pump and blow air into the combustion chamber and start over.

4. Clean the pilot light sight glass with alcohol and a q-tip when the stove has NOT

been running (KABOOM !!!) this will help you see it better. It is the little hole on the bottom inside the

frig on the left and is cover in crud. You will see it glow before the LED light will. The pilot

light sight glass never lies, if it ain't glowin' it ain't workin.

5. If the interior of the van gets above 86 the frig will act funky, I use the propane

mode even when going down the road. 12volt mode works good until above 86

degrees. Propane mode is kickin chicken, and so is the 110 volt mode.

6. Install a inside frig fan and a indoor-outdoor thermometer, you have enough to

worry about, did you lock the front door before you left?

Oil and fuel filters:

Oil Filter:

Only use Mahle or Mann oil filters,( I buy 4 at at a time from Volkscafe) they have a check valve in them,

the local part stores such as Fram, NAPA or anyone else will slowly kill your motor,

it won't matter if it is a TIICO ABA conversion or a Wasserboxer motor. Do not vary from this.

Add add little Marvels Mystery oil to your oil this helps the lifters in all motors. Helps keep the motor clean too.

Oil :

I have tried a lot and Castrol Conventional 20-50w is the only one I found that won't burn off,

or leak out the seals.

Fuel Filter and Pump:

Change both filters every six months, all Vanagon tanks rust like a sieve, the rust will

kill your fuel pump. This is a fact..... 10 dollar fix. Look on EBAY for a cheap used fuel pump and carry a spare. Have 2 small vise grips to squeeze the fuel lines

and keep them from draining the tank, while you are replacing it in a AutoZone parking lot in the rain. Wear your Sunday best while doing this, it seems to help.

Also try to get advice from people who can't even turn a wrench , and even better yet crawl under the van and wait for someone to ask, after your done if your "havin' trouble ???" ...."What kinda van is that" ?

A nice mod is to put a switch on the ground wire on the fuel pump, Hide the switch somewhere in the interior of the van.

The switch is also nice to have, turn the switch off and you can prime the oil system after an oil change. This is an old Cummins diesel trick.

Gauges:

Factory Watertemp gauge:

The factory Watertemp gauge is better than any aftermarket gauge, keep your eye on it, "normal"

is were it usually runs for you Keep your eye on it, it will save your motor. Flush your

coolant every two years, with Phosphate free- coolant, and distilled water. Go to Ben's place for learn how to do it yourself..

http://www.benplace.com/bleeding.htm

The clock

Forget it, the brake fluid fumes kills them off, replacements can be found in old Jettas, but you are

wasting your money and time. That's why I use the clock on the radio. Take the bulb out, and be done with it.

Oil Idiot Light

If it's flickering, keep it simple first, I bet it has the wrong sensor. My ABA and Wasserboxer had the wrong one.

Install and oil pressure gauge and be done with it, AND KEEP THE IDIOT LIGHT TOO. ( you won't be the only one driving it)

I have my aftermarket gauge mounted right in front of my face to constantly

be in touch with the motor. Me and my motor OMMMMMMMMMM.......

Use this: http://www.volkscafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=1401786957

Seats:

Front:

Take the seat armrests off, using a big allen wrench and then tighten the little allen screws, this keeps the arms from

breaking. The seats can be swapped , there is a small triangle piece, it maybe stuck, pry with a screwdriver going up, the

seat will then slide forward and off it's tracks. Swapping the seats will give them more life for your van and pocket book. Just don't tell your partner

you gave them the sh#$ty seat.

Rear:

Install the GoWesty rear 3-point seatbelt kit. I wouldn't want to ride with a lap belt, I don't enjoy free rides through the window at "a high rate of speed"

Use this: http://www.gowesty.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KT-122LHCamper&Category_Code=vp-i-p-seatbelts

There are other methods out there floating around on the web, forget about it......yo....you know what I'm talkin' bout, the GoWesty guys got it going on......their kit kicks a**.

C.V. Joints:

Get the www.Volkscafe.com needle grease kit, and be done with it, the C.V. joints catch hell and this is an easy fix, if

your boots are in good shape. Use this: http://www.volkscafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=340668664

I armor-all my boots after every car wash.

Electrical:

1. Clean all the grounds, the Germans went happy with grounding to the point, of being insane, clean all the grounds on and around the

engine, also behind the Fuse panel is even more grounds. You must remove the connections and sand a clean, the body and the connectors,

the van will slowly run terrible if you don't and will be a headache to repair on the road. After cleaning I sprayed WD-40 on the connections for good measure.

2. RTV the distributor cap and plugs wires. The cap is a poor design and any water can cause the van to run rough, and this will only happen in a rain

storm with all your camping gear on top of the engine cover. It will even know that your back is hurt, and ask for you to push it out of the road, while the parking

brake is on, with it raining buckets. Must be a VDO sensor somewhere I haven't found it yet but I'm looking......one word RTV

Fuel , Coolant and Vacuum lines:

Replace all fuel lines.

REPLACE ALL fuel lines. This is something that could save your life and your Westy. It gives you a home and a warm place to stay so take care of it. The old ones dry rot, and new lines don't last as long with the Ethanol being added to the Gas to help on pollution etc. REPLACE YOUR LINES! It's just monkey work, anyone can do it.

Vacuum lines/leaks:

A trick I found is just to suck it up and replace them all. BUT a lazy trick is to spray Carb. cleaner around with the engine running,

where ever you spray and it starts to run better, that's were your leak is. NOTE: This is VERY dangerous, have a water hose ready, to put out the fire, that

will be coming, HEY don't then.........could be a good insurance claim....My BAD.

Coolant Lines:

Everyone complains that it is complex, no you are just dealing with a motor in the back and a radiator up front, with 2 heaters. Carry a splice kit with different assorted bards and clamps, cheap insurance, I will get flamed for this, but the original hoses are hard to beat, and seem to last longer than the new hoses on the market. Don't know why, but results may vary.....depending on the stars and everything else.

Engine Deck:

Clean it with a good degreaser, the thing is ticking time bomb, that has been soaking up 20 years of grease and oil. Besides it makes your hands yucky when you check the engine before a road trip.

Tires:

Man the internet debate , has gotten old on this. I am still running 14" tires. BUT I am NOT running car tires. I am running Valstrom tires made for the Vanagon, and Bus depot has some other brand, or did ...and they are nice tires at a good price, even cheaper than what I paid. Give Ron some business he is a great vendor. The tires I have run great, no sway, and the van drives like it is on a rail.

Fuel Injection know how, get it while it's hot

Digijet-Digifant I-Digifant II

Use the digitool. www.loam.org It's a no-brainer when you have it. Perm. install it for that warm and fuzzy feeling.

Another trick; If you have a Digifant system, ( 1985.5 and up, models vary) this doesn't apply to the Digijet.(83-84.5) IF it's running rough, unplug the idle stabilization valve, if it still runs rough, that's it...... you just found the problem ,and you didn't need help. Keep your mechanics kids out of college, they'll just drink away the money away anyway.

The AFM

Do the cap fix and be done with it: No more hurkie jerkie what the h#$%^ was that, did we just drop the motor out the back driving around .........it's a quick and painless fix. This applies to ALL Digi systems and also doesn't matter if it's a ABA motor or a Wasserboxer.

http://www.benplace.com/vanagon_intermittent_syndrome.htm